24staged

How to photograph an empty property for virtual staging: a quick checklist

To get the best results from virtual staging, you need clean, well-lit, wide-angle shots taken from corner positions at roughly chest height, with no clutter, no lens distortion, and all lights on. Photo quality is the single biggest variable in how good the finished staged images look — and whether they come back to you same working day without a rework request. This checklist tells you exactly what to capture, room by room, so your submission is ready to go.

Tip

Submitting strong photos the first time means your staged images come back faster and with fewer revision requests. Virtual staging can only work with what it is given — a dark, distorted or cluttered shot limits the output no matter how skilled the staging team.

Why photo quality matters so much for virtual staging

Virtual staging adds furniture, soft furnishings, artwork and lighting digitally into your empty room photo. The result sits entirely on top of your original image. If that original is underexposed, taken at the wrong angle, or has heavy barrel distortion from a wide-angle lens pushed too close to the wall, the finished staging will look off — furniture will appear warped, shadows will not sit naturally on the floor, and the overall image will not pass muster on Rightmove or Zoopla. Getting the photo right takes about ten minutes of extra care on site. It saves hours of back-and-forth later.

Before you shoot: prepare the property

  • Remove all rubbish, cleaning equipment, dust sheets and cardboard boxes. Empty means empty — not "mostly empty".
  • Wipe down skirting boards, window sills and floors. Marks and scuffs will still show in the final image because virtual staging does not alter the floor or walls.
  • Open all internal doors you want included in the shot. Closed doors can suggest a smaller room.
  • Turn on every light in the room, including built-in spotlights and under-cabinet strips. Natural light plus artificial light together give the most even exposure.
  • Open blinds and curtains fully, unless direct sunlight is blowing out the windows. If a window is overexposed (pure white), ask the photographer to bracket or shoot HDR.
  • Remove stickers, temporary signage and any personal items left by the vendor or previous tenant.

Camera and equipment settings

SettingWhat to aim forWhy it matters
ResolutionMinimum 2,000px on the longest edge; 3,000px+ preferredLow resolution limits how much detail the stager can work with
File formatJPEG (high quality) or RAWCompressed or heavily processed JPEGs lose edge detail
Lens focal length16–24mm equivalent on full frame; avoid fisheyeAvoids excessive barrel distortion that warps furniture placement
Aperturef/8 for sharp focus across the whole roomShallow depth of field can blur walls or floors behind furniture
ExposureBright and balanced — not blown-out windowsOverexposed windows create unrealistic light in the staged version
TripodAlwaysCamera shake creates blur; a tripod also forces a consistent height

How to frame and position each shot

The single most common mistake in empty-room photography is standing in the middle of the room and shooting straight ahead. This gives a flat, narrow view and cuts off the corners where most virtual furniture will sit. Instead, follow these positioning rules every time.

  1. Stand in a corner of the room, or as close to it as the space allows. Shooting from a corner opens up the full width and depth of the room in a single frame.
  2. Set your tripod at chest height — roughly 100 to 130 cm. This mimics how a person standing in the room experiences the space. Shooting from floor level or above head height makes the room look distorted.
  3. Keep the camera level. Keystoning (converging vertical lines) is one of the hardest distortion issues for stagers to work around. Use your camera's built-in level or a hot-shoe bubble level.
  4. Show at least two walls in the shot wherever possible. This gives the stager clear reference lines for placing furniture at the correct perspective.
  5. Include the floor and ceiling in the frame. Cropping either out removes the spatial context the stager needs to anchor furniture convincingly.
  6. For larger rooms, take two or three overlapping shots from different corners. More angles give the stager options and reduce the chance that one awkward shot creates a bottleneck.

Room-by-room checklist

RoomMinimum shotsKey details to capture
Living room2 (opposite corners)Full floor area, chimney breast or feature wall, any alcoves
Master bedroom2 (show the main wall where the bed will go)Built-in wardrobes open if possible, window position clear
Additional bedrooms1–2 eachShow full floor and at least two walls
Kitchen2 (show units, worktops and any island)Under-cabinet lights on; include the ceiling if it has features
Dining area1–2Show floor space and natural light source clearly
Bathroom / en suite1–2All lights on; remove toilet seat if possible for a cleaner line
Home office / study1Show the wall where a desk would naturally sit
Hallway1–2Shoot from the front door looking in and from the stairs looking back

Common problems and how to avoid them

  • Dark corners: Move a freestanding lamp or work light into the corner before shooting, then remove it. Even a brief fill-light pass improves the result significantly.
  • Blown-out windows: Shoot HDR (a bracketed set of three exposures) if your camera supports it. Many modern DSLRs and mirrorless cameras do this automatically.
  • Lens distortion: Shoot at a slightly longer focal length (20–24mm rather than 14mm) and step back if space allows. Correct residual distortion in Lightroom before submitting.
  • Mixed colour temperature: Inconsistent white balance (some lights warm, daylight cool) creates colour casts that clash with staged furniture. Set a custom white balance or shoot RAW and correct in post.
  • Cluttered floor edges: Skirting boards, door stops and power sockets are fine — they are part of the room. Builder's rubble, extension leads and tape marks are not. Clear them before you shoot.
  • Portrait orientation: Always shoot landscape (horizontal). Portal listings and the reveal widget are designed around landscape images.

Submitting your photos: a final pre-send check

  1. Check every image is in focus from front to back of frame.
  2. Confirm no temporary items are visible: cleaning supplies, paint tins, keys, bags.
  3. Verify each image is at least 2,000px on the longest edge.
  4. Label files by room name so the stager can match each image to the correct brief without guessing.
  5. Include a brief note if any room has an unusual feature — a sloped ceiling, a bay window, or a split-level floor — so the stager can plan furniture placement accordingly.
  6. Double-check your brief specifies the style and colour palette you want. Clear creative direction at submission avoids revision requests.

Info

All images returned by 24staged are clearly labelled 'virtually staged' before you use them in any marketing material. This keeps your listing compliant with Rightmove, Zoopla and OnTheMarket portal guidelines, as well as ASA and CMA guidance on property advertising.

If you are commissioning a professional photographer rather than shooting yourself, share this checklist with them ahead of the visit. Most property photographers already work to similar standards, but flagging the virtual staging use case upfront ensures they deliver the corner-position, level shots you need rather than their usual editorial style. It takes one short email and saves a reshoot.

Ready to see what your empty rooms can look like?

The quickest way to judge whether virtual staging will work for your listings is to try it on one room. Request a free staged sample and we will show you exactly what a professionally staged version of your empty room looks like, clearly labelled and portal-ready, before you commit to anything.

What resolution do photos need to be for virtual staging?

Aim for a minimum of 2,000 pixels on the longest edge, with 3,000 pixels or more preferred. Images below this threshold limit the level of detail a stager can work with, and the finished result can look soft when viewed on a portal listing or printed for a brochure.

Can I use photos taken on a smartphone for virtual staging?

Modern flagship smartphones (shot in their standard wide-angle mode) can produce acceptable results, provided you use a tripod or stable surface, shoot in good light with all room lights on, and export at full resolution. Avoid the ultrawide lens, as it introduces heavy distortion that is difficult to work around during staging.

Do I need to remove everything from the room before shooting?

Yes, ideally. Virtual staging adds furniture into an empty room — it does not remove existing items. Any objects left in the room will appear in the final staged image. The exception is fixed features like fireplaces, radiators and built-in joinery, which the stager will work around and incorporate naturally.

How many photos should I submit per property?

A typical two-bedroom flat might need eight to twelve images to cover all key rooms with multiple angles. A larger house might need fifteen or more. It is better to submit more than you think you need — the stager can select the best angles from a larger set, and you avoid having to revisit the property for additional shots.

Will virtually staged images be accepted on Rightmove and Zoopla?

Yes, provided they are clearly labelled as virtually staged on the image itself. Both portals, along with OnTheMarket, expect digitally enhanced or virtually staged images to be disclosed. All images from 24staged carry a clear 'virtually staged' label, so you can upload them to any UK portal with confidence.